Basic Herpetology

1. Temperature Regulation

Reptiles are cold-blooded, more acurately they are poikliothermic, which means whatever the temperature of their environment is, that's the temperature of their body.

For a poikliotherm to be healthy, it must have proper body temperature, which means it must have the capability to find that temperature within its environment.

A herp's body temperature requirements change according to complex physiology. For instance, a full stomach requires additional temperature to activate enzymes that aid in digestion. Therefore, a reptile's enviroment must supply a gradient of temperatures for the reptile to choose between.

When we hold herps captive within cages, we restrict their inate ability to regulate their temperature. The herp becomes dependant on the keeper or whatever machines the keeper employs to regulate the temperature of the environment.

The gist is, temperature is everything. If a cage malfunctions, providing too much or too little heat, that is a real emergency for the animal.

2. Nutrition

Water is the most important nutrient. A clean water source is second only to proper thermal gradient. This water source idealy is large enough for the animal to submerge it's entire body.

Food is necessary, but they can do without once in a while. Because caged snakes are sedintary, almost only using energy for growth and development, they can go as long as four months without feeding. However, this fast would be undesired because the snake would loose weight, stunt growth, and loose any desire for a proper feeding schedule. Like most things in life, I've found snakes fall into cycles. Feeding schedule is one of these cycles. If you create a poor cycle, you are limited in your growth and overall health and body mass. Offer food at least once per ten days yet don't fret if the snake doesn't take it. But do offer more frequently if a snake hasn't eaten in more than 14 days. An adult snake that is not eating is only an emergency after a few months, however if you ever get them eating frequently again, it will be a struggle for you and the snake's digestive system. (see feeding for more info)

3. Stimulation

External stimuli pattern snakes pea brains. Being moved around should be part of a snakes pattern. If a snake is left untouched by humans for a long period of time, then it becomes used to that. A snake used to being left alone will become more aggressive when one day moved or worked with. The more you can handle your snakes the better, over stimulation might arise if handled more than 2 hours every other day.

We can only wonder what goes through a snake's tiny brain while resting hours on end staring at the walls of its cage. However, it's easy for me to understand how it must feel when all the sudden the cage door opens and human peers and prods, and attempts to get it out. This is a vunerable experience so develop habits that respect this. When I open a cage door I stand back, not just for safety sake, but to give the snake some time to process what's happening. Watch their tounges sniff you and then slowly move your hand in and gently caress them - it may be best to go right behind their head so that if they strike you have their neck before they make any contact.

4. Duties of a Responsible Snake Owner

Monitor and keep a record of all events, notice and act on the unusual. Know common diseases and scrutinize your animals looking closely for any signs of them. If a snake gets ill, it's most easily treated early. If you keep a record of everything that occurs in your snake's life, feedings, sheddings, temperature changes, weight changes etc... then you create a baseline of information, with which you or your veterinarian can make diagnosis from. If you have no information, how are you to know if something is normal or indicitive of disease? Records are also vital if you're interested in breeding.

Maintain a clean and stable environment for your animals! Check for signs of weakness in your caging and locks, an escape means you're not providing a proper gradient, illness can ensue. Remove snakes from soiled material ASAP. It's nice to use a temporary cage, (i also use one for feeding) that has wheels or is below the permanant caging, but just get them out from their mess. Clean up mess using disinfectant, but keep surface toxicity levels down, always rinse after using toxic chemicals like bleach. Change the substrate of the cage and clean and refill water. Water should be placed on the warm side or middle of the cage dependant on humidity. Good cleaning habits will help you maintain a healthy collection.